How Big Should it Be?

As some of my racing friends would say - “ there ain’t no replacement for displacement...” - and this really rings true when it comes to turning - wood or metal. When you have a lot of mass behind the piece you are working, the “feel” and control improve tremendously, vibration is all but a thing of the past, and your range of work is expanded.

If you plan to turn in the 12” diameter range, and buy a commercial 12” lathe, you may be constantly pushing your machine near its outer limits. While the L-1 is designed for a 24” diameter, this is not just for turning the larger stuff. Even working in the 12 to 15” diameter range, the L-1 will be loafing, and will barely notice the load you place on it. If you do a mix of faceplate work and smaller spindle work, the L-1 can also handle the higher speeds needed for small work. And - all that meat will be there to make the work more vibration free than you’ve ever thought possible!

How tall should a lathe be?

I have been told that the spindle height of most free-standing production lathes has been calculated for the size of high school students, as high schools and vo-tech schools provide a very large market. With the freedom of design that the variable speed drive offers as well as that of a welded framework, the spindle height of the L-1 can be created for YOU at the time it is built.
No more stuffing bricks and I-beam pieces under your machine to get it to your height. Stand with your feet flat on the floor, and touch your elbows to your side (this should be just a few inches above your beltline). Now raise your hands in front as though holding a gouge. This should be the approximate height of the spindle centerline of your lathe. I am six feet tall, and have built the prototype for myself at 48”. This is just a bit higher than the measurements of my hands.